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Thank you so much for your interest in donating to our advocacy! Your donation will be used for food heritage research, field work expenses, website hosting and maintenance, and the like so that I can continue sharing our different local food cultures and ingredients.
Barangay Hoskyn, Guimaras
Tultul Artisanal Salt
In Barangay Hoskyn, located in Jordan, Guimaras, a family preserves the tradition of crafting a rare artisanal salt known as tultul. Diverging from mass-produced industrial salts, tultul salt blocks are meticulously created in limited quantities, utilizing time-honored methods. The process entails the collection of various pieces of driftwood, the filtration of saltwater, and the gentle simmering of the brine over several hours. The culmination of this labor-intensive process results in a big slab of salt, which is subsequently divided into smaller blocks referred to as "bareta."
Tultul holds a cherished place in local culinary customs, traditionally serving as a viand or condiment for various dishes. Residents immerse it in porridge, soups, or steamed rice, often accompanied by a touch of fat or oil.
The Ganila family has upheld the tradition of making tultul for several decades. However, in 2019, they were forced to halt their salt production due to the detrimental impact of the Iloilo-Guimaras oil spill on their craft.
The incident greatly affected their ability to continue the tradition. Furthermore, the pandemic further prolonged the hiatus of the family’s salt production. It wasn't until 2023 that the Ganila family finally resumed the production of tultul.
Tay Serafin, the esteemed patriarch of the Ganila family, proudly carries on the tradition of making tultul.
He shares that the lineage of crafting this artisanal salt dates back to his great-grandfather, who first initiated the practice. Through the generations, the art of tultul-making was diligently passed down to his grandfather, followed by his father. Today, Tay Serafin stands at the helm, leading the family in the production of this salt.
Now, his two sons and a grandson actively involved in continuing the legacy.
A husband and wife tandem. Emma Ganila, the wife of Serafin, still making the traditional salt at age of 72.
Tultul can only produce from December to May where the salinity of seawater is high.
The process of making the artisanal salt starts with the collection of raw materials (such as pieces of wood, twigs, and coconut husks) or 'dagsa' from the seashores. These plant materials, which have been soaked in saltwater for some time, will undergo a burning process and continuous dousing of saltwater, during which the resulting ash will be collected.
According to the family, this is the most laborious task because it will take several days and large amount of raw materials to produce enough quantity of ashes.
The collected ashes will be placed in a cylindrical filtering device called ‘kaing,’ that is made with woven bamboo.
The sea water's salinity is insufficient, so it is required to pass through a kaing filled with salted ashes. This additional step helps enhance the salinity of the water, ensuring the production of high-quality salt.
The produced brine from the filtration is called ‘tuma.’ The strained brine is collected in containers placed under the kaing.
Traditional knowledge plays a crucial role in determining the salinity of the brine or “tuma” during the tultul salt production. To gauge the brine's readiness, a piece of wood from a local mangrove species called pagatpat is utilized.
Pagatpat wood is renowned for being one of the densest mangrove woods available. The Ganila family relies on this time-honored technique: if the piece of pagatpat wood sinks when placed in the brine, it indicates that the salinity level is not yet optimal. This intuitive method allows them to assess and adjust the brine's salinity, ensuring the production of high-quality tultul salt.
To prepare the tultul salt, the Ganila family engages in a meticulous process that involves cooking the brine for approximately 8 hours in metal pans called "suro." Throughout this duration, they diligently replenish the pan with brine whenever it evaporates.
After about 3 to 4 hours into the cooking process, they introduce a key ingredient: coconut milk, or "gata," into the mixture.
One of the distinctive characteristics of tultul lies in the incorporation of coconut milk into its production. According to the Ganila family, the inclusion of coconut milk during the cooking process contributes to the salt's enhanced texture and solidity.
After several hours of cooking, the tultul salt slabs are placed together to facilitate the cooling process. Once they have completely cooled down, the Ganila family proceeds to carefully remove the slabs from the metal pans.
One of the sons of Tay Serafin refining or cleaning a slab of salt.
A single slab of tultul can yield 24 to 28 individual bareta pieces. In the accompanying photo, a 1/4 slab is depicted, awaiting division into smaller segments through the use of a saw or lagare. The process of sawing through the salt block is akin to cutting into solid rock, showcasing the remarkable density of the salt.
In the past, the Ganila family would journey to various towns in Iloilo, and even extend their travels as far as Negros, to sell their prized baretas. These dedicated artisans would frequent public markets, tirelessly offering their salt to eager customers.
With the advent of social media, the Ganila family no longer needs to traverse from one island to another in order to sell tultul. Orders from both locals and tourists now pour in, thanks to the widespread reach of online platforms. Tay Serafin, Nay Emma, and the rest of the family express their commitment to continuing their craft for as long as possible.