Fermented Delicacies

In the Philippines, various ethnolinguistic groups have a fermented delicacy made from rice or other starchy ingredients, which has a sweet-sour, almost liquor-like taste. One commonality among these delicacies is the folk beliefs associated with their production, from observing strict cleanliness to adhering to specific behaviors during the process. Another shared feature is the use of a fermentation starter in the form of dried cakes made from rice, herbs, and spices.

In Antique, where it is called sapal, the fermented rice is wrapped in talus leaves from a plant in the genus 𝘏𝘰𝘮𝘢𝘭𝘰𝘮𝘦𝘯𝘢. The fermentation starter used for sapal is called tapay. Sapal is typically eaten as is, sometimes with plain rice. Soft and watery, locals describe it as “regurgitated rice” from a drunk person. Sapal is also used by the babaylan as an offering during rituals. It produces a liquor that is used in folk medicine, either consumed or applied topically. Similar fermented rice exists in other provinces of Panay Island, such as sapal in Iloilo, inumoe in Aklan, and umol in Capiz.

In Maguindanao, it is called tapay, where the fermented rice is wrapped in alim or alum leaves. The fermentation starter is also called tapay or apuan. It has less moisture compared to sapal but becomes watery when further fermented. At this stage, it is used to ferment sun-dried fish, such as dalag (mudfish). The fish is covered in tapay and left to ferment, similar to the buro of the Kapampangans. Once ready, the fermented fish is mixed with spices like tikwas (local galangal), shredded, and deep-fried to create a dish called tinapayan.

In the Lanao provinces, this fermented delicacy is also called tapay and is typically made with cassava, though a rice version exists. The fermentation starter is also called tapay. The fermented starch is wrapped in banana leaves and sold in local stores. Meranaos consume it as is or as a dessert by adding ice, cream, and rice crisps.In many areas of the Cordillera (and upland areas of the Ilocos region), rice wine is called tapuy or tapey, produced by fermenting rice using bubod. The rice wine is used in rituals and celebrations. The fermented rice is also consumed.

In Pangasinan, a version known as binuburan, fermented using bubur, is also soft and watery. Traditionally wrapped in banana leaves, it is now commonly sold in plastic containers in public markets. In the Ilocano language, it is called binubudan or bubod, and it is also found in other provinces of the Ilocos region.

Many other versions exist throughout Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao, as well as in neighboring Southeast Asian countries, especially in Austronesian cultures such as Indonesia and Malaysia, where it is called tapai. The tradition of fermented starch is a living pre-colonial custom and a symbol of our shared heritage.